You can also often find interesting textures and patterns on the ground which make interesting bokeh. Light through trees and spraying water are also fun subjects to explore. You can easily experiment with creating bokeh if you have a set of christmas lights hanging around. Having the mix of shadows helps those sparkly highlights stand out. Out-of-focus highlights make bokeh that seems sparkly. Have Something Sparkly In Your Background / Foregroundīokeh looks the most dramatic when you have a mix of highlights and shadows (e.g sunlight filtering through a tree). The longer focal length of 55mm (even at f/5.6) will be a better job of capturing bokeh then setting the lens to f/3.5 at 18mm. In this situation the best thing to do in order to get the best bokeh is to shoot at 55mm at f/5.6. What this means is that when the lens is at 18mm the largest the aperture is f/3.5, but as you zoom in to 55mm the largest the aperture is allowed to open is f/5.6. For example an 18-55mm lens might have an f/3.5 -f/5.6 lens. Some lenses like kit lenses don’t have very fast apertures. If everything in the photo is in focus then there won’t be any bokeh.
Why is this? Because when your subject is far away, your camera’s lens will be focused at infinity, and everything in the shot will be in focus. For example if you’re shooting a subject that is very far away (like a mountain) then even if you’re shooting with a fast aperture you won’t get any bokeh. Now this can be a bit deceptive because just shooting at f/1.4 doesn’t guarantee you’ll have bokeh in your photos. Creating a shallow depth of field will allow more of your image to be out of focus – increasing the potential for bokeh. The wider your aperture (small f/numbers) the shallower your depth of field will be. Shooting faster apertures (f/1.4, f/1.8, f/2.8) can help create a more shallow depth of field. So, if you’re using a zoom lens like a 18-55mm then shooting at 55mm will help maximize bokeh! This can help emphasize the appearance of bokeh in a photo. Longer focal length lenses (like 200mm) give the appearance of greater subject to background separation compared to shorter focal length lenses (like 24mm). The more you increase the distance between your subject and the background, the more the background will be blurred. You can increase the amount of background blur by having your subjects stand farther away from the background. It’s fine to take photos like that, but you won’t get much (if any) bokeh, and your subjects definitely won’t stand out much from the background. Your first instinct when shooting people might be to have them stand directly in front of a background (like standing against a wall). Increase the Subject to Background Distance
What you’ll find is that you can maximize the amount of blur in your background, by shooting as close as you can to your subject without getting closer than the minimum focusing distance. Now the problem is that a camera’s lens usually has a minimum focusing distance (the point where the lens can no longer focus because you’re too close to the subject).
The closer you are to your subject the more the background will be out of focus. One thing to keep in mind is that often the best bokeh results from combining techniques! In this article we’ll look at several different techniques for getting better bokeh in your photos. “ Bokeh is is the aesthetic quality of the blur produced in the out-of-focus parts of an image” (from Wikipedia). Other times it may seem as though an endless dazzling array of sparkles is filling the scene. But have you ever looked at a photo and noticed how beautiful the out-of-focus areas are? Sometimes the out-of-focus areas might look like a gorgeous soft mass of blurriness. Normally what grabs our attention in a great photo is what is in focus.
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